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| what would nandini do?
This page provides answers and musings from Katherine's alter-ego, nandini, on any and all subjects of her choosing.
A highly unqualified expert on practically everything, nandini will answer questions using the wisdom of the ages imbued with the practicality of Heloise, the experience of Dear Abby, the irreverance of Rob Brezney and the wit of Dorothy Parker.
Some of these questions come courtesy of Marcy. Editing may be involved and all content is mine.
Please email your questions to: katherine@katherinetilton.com |
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| Miss-Understood or Usable Fusible
The ever curious Shelley (friend and Marcy’s assistant) is eager for more sewing information and always asking questions. Lately they have been about fusibles and how they can be used to simplify the construction of t-shirts. She thought she understood but this morning she discovered that all fusibles are not equal.
What fusibles have in common is their fusibility. The ability to hold two pieces of fabric together. But not all fusibles are the same.
First there is fusible web - a thin layer of plastic dots or web that will melt under the iron’s heat to bond/fuse two fabrics together. Fusible web comes in many forms and several weights. Most of the time, and always with knits, I use the lightest weight fusible web I can find. Fusible web can be found in various widths in tape like rolls, pre-packaged pieces or larger width rolls like yardage. Some webs (like Steam-a-Seam) have a thin paper backing which allows me to iron the web in place accurately or apply the web on a larger piece of fabric to cut for an applique. Other webs (like Stitch Witchery) are free-standing. I cut 1/8” wide strips and frequently fuse hems in place before I stitch them down. This keeps knits - especially the thin and rolling ones - from slipping and sliding while providing a bit of stabilizing for the stitches.
Fusible interfacing is another story. A great story to be sure but fusible interfacings are not the same as fusible web. Interfacing is applied to give more stability and/or structure to a fabric. Fusible interfacing simplifies things by allowing us to iron the interfacing onto the fabric rather than sewing it. How you might ask? Fusible interfacing consists of a fabric base (woven, knit or webbed) with those little dots or web of plastic conveniently applied to one side.
Fusible interfacings come in many weights and widths to be used in multitudes of applications. Heavy-weight fusible interfacings work well in purses where you want lots of structure and stability on the bottom and sides. I like the lightweight flexibility of fusible tricot for knits and lightweight wovens. I use 3/8” strips of lightweight fusible tricot interfacing to stabilize the shoulders in my t-shirts. A great way to use up the scraps from my larger projects.
Namaste,
nandini
March 2010 |
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| Don't have a heart attack
I love your cardiac stitch, but I sure can't find anything close to that on my Bernina 730. What machine do you use?
Love your creativity....
Thanks, Roylynn
Thank YOU, Roylynn because I never knew that stitch even had a name! I've used it many times (calling it a 'zig & zag' stitch) especially on the exposed seams and pockets on the vests I make. I have a Bernina 1130 and I can tell you that the stitch isn't on my machine either.
Well it is and it isn't.
The cardiac stitch isn't an embroidery or patterned stitch. And you can do it on any machine that has a reverse stitch option. You create the cardiac stitch yourself by using a straight stitch and simply going backwards and forwards while moving the fabric gently to one side.
After many clunky starts I found an easy rhythm that works for me. I am usually doing the cardiac stitch over an exposed seam so that is what I'm going to describe.
Stitch the seam and press open. Place the seam under the pressure foot, angling off to the right. Make a forward stitch about 3/4", then pulling the fabric gently towards the left, stitch about 1/2" - 3/4" in reverse, continue stitching forwards and backwards in varying lengths while gently pulling the fabric to the left. You will find your own rhythm and soon find you've cardiac stitched down the whole seam! Voila, you are done.
Part of you may wish that you could just flip a switch and the stitch would do itself but I find the variations made by doing it by hand keep the cardiac stitch more interesting visually. And the rhythm is quite meditative when there are lots of seams to do...
Namaste,
nandini
November 2009 |
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| | To Wash Or Not To Wash, That Is The Question...
It would be really great if the the care instructions were in the fabric descriptions on Marcy’s website. I like to wash rather than dry clean and I was a little stumped as to whether various linens, microfiber etc could be washed. Thanks.
Ann Marie
Ann Marie (also Patti and the rest of you that maybe haven’t asked),
I like to wash rather than dry clean too. More economical but more important, kinder to the environment.
Most of the fabrics on Marcy’s website and just about everything we sew with is washable. Exceptions would be wool and wool blend coatings or wool pant fabric or something like silk organza (unless a limp wrinkled effect is desired - and you might want this in some cases but we won’t explore why you wouldn’t...). Or in a jacket where we want the look to remain crisp and fresh.
Otherwise, absolutely, positively, for sure, for sure, we pre-wash almost all the fabric we use so that we can wash the garment once it is sewn. Pre-washing also lets us know if there is anything of interest going on with the fabric we might want to know about - shrinkage issues, flaws, finishes that change, interesting selvedges to use... Linens, cottons, denims, microfibers, fleeces, wool blends (for ‘frayed’ vests), wool jersey (for ‘felted’ jackets and vests), silks, knits or wovens - toss it into the washer on the ‘normal’ (whatever that is) cycle with warm water, sometimes with soap but not always. Wash it once, then into the dryer on high. Nothing fancy. We don’t want any surprises and usually pre-washing improves things. The fabric will want to be ironed before cutting.
Now the deal is this - once the fabric is made into a garment, wash it in cool water using the ‘delicate’ or ‘gentle’ cycle, and do not put it into the dryer. (Well, actually sometimes we do cheat and toss things into the dryer for 5-10 minutes just to fluff them up a bit as who wants to iron more than is necessary?) It is the dryer that wears things out and causes garments, especially t-shirts, to look old before their time - and none of us needs that!
Namaste,
nandini
September, 2009 |
| A Must - Increase the Bust
Subject: Vogue 8497 bust adjustment.
I have made a few muslins (cheap knit) of two of the tops (B and C) trying to find a good method to enlarge the bust. I fit a 46 Euro as a rule, but must add at least 3 inches at the bust. No darts work, obviously, and incremental amounts added across seem to end up with the Titanic effect: the shirt hangs from the bust and you look like an ocean liner leaving port. I would appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks, Terry
Terry,
Along with gravity (in full evidence as one reaches a certain age), trying to get T-shirts to fit is one of the downsides (pun intended) of having a large bust. I am speaking from experience here! You do have a few options -- slice, dice, drape and say your prayers...
Making a muslin is definitely the right place to start. Cut the front as one piece to begin - once it fits better you can add the center seam detail. If I were standing in front of you, I would pin and play and something would eventually work. So much of sewing is trial and error - and remember, you have to be smart to sew. Problem solving is part of the fun and challenge of sewing.
You have a little more experimenting and play to do with the pattern. A sewing buddy would be a great help and make the process more fun but you can do it by yourself. Make sure you have your best foundation garments on for the fitting.
I would try a dart or even two - under the arm in the side seam obviously - which should reduce a bit of the Titanic effect. A dart coming from the neck on either side could also be used and incorporated as a design detail. With knits I’ve had great luck using curved darts that are slashed and pressed open to the right side of the fabric.
The center seam on V 8497 can also be used to add width (don’t you love breaking rules?). Because the 5/8” seams are overlapped at the center you have some room to maneuver an extra 1/2”, or more if you add it. I find fusing this seam together with a strip of lightweight fusible web keeps the seam from slipping when I go to sew.
Fabric choice is also important - you want a firm knit with lycra or spandex in it. I recently completed a limited production run of 30 T shirts made from the same pattern using different knits. Every knit sewed up differently and warranted different solutions for fit and finish.
Namaste,
Katherine
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| | Linen = Wrinkles
I have a couple of lightweight linen summer shirts that I wear as jackets. The problem is that the hem rolls up at center back from getting in and out of my work chair. Is there a technique to avoid this or to prevent it?
Thank you,
Terri
Terri,
Linen is as linen does and yes linen does wrinkle. Always.
Stand around all day trying to look smooth? (This would require walking to work or standing in the subway, which you would hope was uncrowded...) Duct tape it to your thighs? (Messy...) Thumbtacks?!! (Ouch) Have an iron handy? Not practical, any of it.
If you love linen you have to also love the wrinkles. When I don’t want to iron my linens (almost always) I twist them up (vertical pleats please) and let them sit for a bit. This creates so many wrinkles that a few more don’t really matter. The only way to travel with linens as far as I am concerned.
A bigger hem in a lightweight linen shirt/jacket might help with the rolling issue by giving the fabric more weight. I would probably fold the fabric twice to create a hem of three layers, 2-3” deep. See how this could be incorporated into the design.
You have to be smart to sew. It’s all about problem solving and choices. Sewers soon learn that every fabric has a mind and will of its own. No two are ever exactly alike. That’s part of the adventure and challenge of sewing.
Nandini
June 2009 |
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